“Lunch with my family has recently become a significant event. We try to elevate the household mood with delicious things, such as a gratin of courgettes, bacon with endives or grilled chipolatas. Today is Easter Monday and it’s also the second birthday we’re celebrating in confinement. We’re having a Brandade de morue (a creamy cod) with champagne. The kids, already high on chocolate bunnies, are dancing to Steely Dan. My mother in law is spinning lettuce – rinsing, turning, emptying. ‘Should have given the water to the plants’, she says, rinsing one last time.
I’m thinking about my hunger, this moment, and the bright green salad leaves spinning in the cold water.”